Frequently Asked Questions
Be willing to ask! ask! ask!
-Jack Canfield, co-author of
Chicken Soup for the Soul
-Jack Canfield, co-author of
Chicken Soup for the Soul
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- I've heard they dry out too quickly, is that true?
Soil blocks do have a tendency to dry out if they are not watered three times daily(completely saturated) after they
are fully germinated(normally 3-10 days for most seedlings). Remember, they are exposed to air on 5 sides.
Watering your blocks is part of the program, and you must check them morning, noon and night. The fogging or
misting is the best way to do that because you can just drench them and they love it.
- Most blocks will be made of peat, which does have a tendency to dry out. Try Coco peat mixed half and half with
regular peat. It does not dry out so fast. Or try a coco peat capillary mat. It will absorb all the water and let the
blocks wick it up when they need it.
- Also, we have heard that some people, inevitably, will not water three times a day. In this case, you must place
them in a shallow tray that can hold water. You will water them from the bottom. Place your blocks in the tray and
fill with 1" of water. Your tray should not be over 1 3/4" high, in case you over fill them with water it will not drown
the seedlings. Check once a day, and depending on the rate of evaporation,water once a day or every other
day. This is known as capillary action, or bottom watering. You can also use this method to re-moisten dried out
blocks.
- You can mix in some Zeba Quench in your potting soil. Zeba Quench is a state of the art, all natural, starch
based, biodegradable super-absorbant soil amendment that improves soil moisture retention and water supply to
plants. Readily releases 95% of water back to the plant. Mix it in to the dry potting soil and it will absorb 400 times
it's weight in water and will hydrate and rehydrate hundreds of times over and over in it's lifetime. Cuts down
watering of your blocks in half. Now, who doesn't have time for a little watering now and Zen!
After making one million blocks in five years, I have the best answer to everyone's drying out problem. It all has to do
with the blocking mix. You simply have to make your own blend and use the highest quality vegetable-based
compost you can find. You must use your best garden soil or at least replace that quantity with more compost. Perlite
is more moisture retaining than sand or vermiculite. Once your blocks are made, don't let them dry out, not even once.
Place a large black piece of plastic over the blocks to let the seeds germinate and lift it off in two or three days. I have
come to the conclusion that unless you have a perfect blocking mix, you must pack your blocks together, side by side,
touching each other without the air gap that I have mentioned earlier. This will prevent drying out, even though the roots
may get slightly intertwined. Don't worry about that, moisture is more important.
Readers Write: We listen...The Potting Block Guru responds.......
- They are expensive, can't I make my own? Yes, click here!
Cell 1 maker or click on this link, Make your own blocker and save.
- Why are your soil blockers so expensive?
modular, efficient results based upon years of dedicated research. Small backyard gardeners or gardeners on a tight
budget would do quite well with a homemade blocker, following the sound practices of the blocking method. However,
the investment in soil block makers are well worth their price. They'll never break or wear out like homemade ones will.
They can stand up to repeated use for large scale or avid gardeners. They're made of steel by British Engineers.
They are zinc coated. They are so easy to use. The square shape is an efficient use of space, compared to
homemade blockers. You can pack more soil in professional blockers than homemade blockers. The block comes out
superior, every time; and it never falls apart and can withstand water spray and transporting. Professional blockers
come with seed pin options which are completely interchangeable, and allow the potting on, or transplanting onto,
option that gives them the edge over any other system on the planet. They are for serious gardeners who need a
system to work, and work now, with a limited learning curve and immediate results. Although it may fun to make your
own and save a buck, some gardeners just need to get growing and experience the amazing growth due to the cube of
compressed potting soil. Potting blocks have been tested, researched and practiced for decades. They are proven to
get the results you should expect from paying a premium for these outstanding tools.
- Do they come with a warranty?
that this is the best seed starting and transplanting equipment you've ever used and we are so proud of the soil
blockers we sell: If you are not completely satisfied with your soil block maker, you are entitled to a complete
refund in 30 days, and you can keep the block maker as our gift to you, to give away to someone else! And
every soil block maker we sell comes with our lifetime guarantee. Should something go wrong or if
anything breaks, you are entitled to a completely new blocker without question. Simply email us at
servicecenter@pottingblocks.com and we'll do the rest.
- I'm interested in buying some block makers, where can I buy them?
won't have them. They are a specialty item, and PottingBlocks.com is a specialty shop. Once you purchase our Soil
Block Makers, you are supported and guided every step of the way. There is some learning curve, and we promise to
be there for you. You can call my business line 24/7 at 541-913-6689. Our site is primarily an education site,
teaching you the theory and practice of soil block making. When you decide to actually purchase from us, you
become a lifelong member of our group, privy to the specials, bonuses, freebies, and update alerts. And, I donate
every cent, after business expenses, to charity groups that feed people. Every purchase includes The Potting Block
Promise, which is a lifetime guaranty on your machines. No one else can do this for you. Support our site and only
purchase blockers from a reputable dealer of the Ladbrooke makers. By supporting our site in any way you can, you
can help further the research needed to create the ultimate seed starting and transplanting experiment on the planet!
- Are they difficult to use?
pack the blocker with plenty of soil. And always do a little lift and twist off the bottom of the bucket to release the
suction created by the moisture. You'll know if you don't, the blocks will stay stuck to the bottom of the bucket!
The pins do take a little effort to change out to different pins. Big hint here: Keep a magnetic tipped phillips head
screw driver handy to change the cubic pins out. Keep a pliers or a needle nose pliers handy for the seed and
dowel pins. The pins will take a lot of abuse, so plan on buying a few extra sets. They are made of plastic and will
wear out. We are working on that issue. Stay tuned..........
The greatest idea would be to plan ahead and seed like-sized seeds together and change the pins less frequently.
- Are these the soil block shapers that Martha Stewart uses and recommends?
cubers, block makers, and Ladbrooke soil blockers.
Martha Stewart said it best when she describes using the soil blockers compared to other methods: "When you're
done changing, you're done." You'll just have to try them out for yourself and see why Martha Stewart uses them,
too!
- But she said "never use compost or soil when germinating". Why?
germination. She's wise to not confuse people and get them started on the right path. I, however, have always
used compost with flying results. The key is to used a mature, finished, black, aged, and screened (1/4")
vegetable compost. You must make your own or scrutinize the label of a store bought product. Stay away from
any steer manure or excess nitrogen. As far as soil is concerned, I recommend it in my blocking mix recipe, but I
know my soil. It is a good garden soil, free of weeds, diseases, bugs, and is organic. When in doubt, don't use it.
- HELP! I've created too many soil blocks, what do I do now? (Part 1 of 3)
O.K. O.K. I forget to warn all of you newbies to soil blocking; they're so easy to create and so fun to make that you
can end up with too many, and end up with too many seedlings. First things first, use my SEASON CYCLES DATA
LOG to really pay attention to the seedlings you are sowing. This will help you to slow down and focus on the growth
of every seed, and not get too carried away with the incredible soil block maker machine! Use the moon to guide
your plantings, like all the old timers, to slow your rhythm down. And, think continual harvest and succession
planting. See Season Extending.
You will be able to handle more as you get better at seeding, transplanting and harvesting after you master the
reasonable amount you start with now. You are, after all, acting like a mini farmer, and your soil blocks are a
representation of a larger garden, just compressed into small spaces. You'll have to see the bigger picture: Where
will all these seedlings go once they do need their proper garden space.
Take your space into consideration first. How much land do you have? How much nursery space(do you hear your
babies crying for attention?) or greenhouse or cold frame or window sill or cloches do you have? What are the
space requirements for spinach as compared to tomatoes? Squash compared to marigolds? Thyme compared to
sunflowers? Think about it......
- Part 2 of 3
So, you got carried away did you? Easy to do. I do it every day. I push the envelope to create solutions. First, try
giving the extra seedlings away. You can give them away one at a time without any packaging, or you can build
some light weight cedar wooden flats. Or, you can use Aseptic packs like rice and soy milk containers with the tops
cut open for about 6-8 blocks. Try to reuse household recycle-ables to place them in. Everyone loves being given
starts, especially when all they have to do is pop them in a pot or garden. Next, you'll want to space them out on a
large sheet of plastic so they don't grow together. This will keep the roots air pruned and buy you some more time.
Spacing of about 1/8"- 1/4" is fine. Water more frequently now that the sides are exposed. Too many lettuces or
greens? Try letting them grow large enough in the blocks and start clipping them and eating them. Stay off the
fertilizer for about 10 days before you eat them.
A quick and easy garden would be to lay down sheets of cardboard on any ground and space out your blocks
accordingly, stuff straw all around the soil blocks and on top of them, leaving only the seedling showing. Water
frequently, and fertilize regularly, keep the blocks covered in straw and watch 'em grow.
- Part 3 of 3
You need to create space for your seedlings inside in a greenhouse, potting shed, cold frame, or hoop house. Or,
you need to create a garden space outside. In that case, you'll need to harden off your plants before they are
ready for transplanting. These steps are best described in Transplanting or Season Extension.
- What type of potting soil do you recommend if you don't want to make it yourself?
moss. Try getting a Horticultural grade potting soil. Pro Mix is the best I've ever used. You can get Pro Mix at any
larger nursery. Be careful of the salesman who wants to sell you a composted forest product instead of Peat moss.
It will not work. You need peat to hold the block together. See our March 30th blog entry, at the Soil Block Blog.
We are working on a commercial blend called "Old Farm Boy" for all blocks, due out in 2009. If you buy Peaceful
Valley's Quickroot, you'll need to cut it with half peat moss. If you buy Johnny's seedling mix, remember, it's
sterilized and has no organic base fertilizers or trace minerals. Supplement with rock dusts and fertilize in less than
one week.
- My wet potting soil stinks and the growth of my plants seem stunted and yellowish.
What gives?
and the breakdown of this material is robbing your plants of nitrogen and oxygen. Blocking Mix should never stink,
use finished compost and your best gardening soil. Make your block mix fresh and use within 2 hours. Any left over
material should be set aside and reworked back into fresh blocking mix by churning and mixing thoroughly with your
hands or a paddle. This is known as actively aerated potting soil, coined a.a.p.s. Keep churning your mix until it
smells like freshly plowed soil. Then make your blocks again. If your blocking mix is too far gone for a remix,
perhaps it sat for weeks, chuck it in the compost pile and start again. Also, stay away from manure composts and
questionable composts. Again, use finished, matured, aged, and blackened compost or worm castings that ate
mostly vegetable wastes.
- My seeds are not germinating. I thought it was supposed to be easy?
you are using old seeds, change your set up to a "germination station". That means, change your pins for your 2"
block maker into the cubic pins and make a whole bunch of blocks. Make sure your mix is freshly made and stirred
really well. Then, drop bunches of seeds into the cubic holes and cover lightly with a little sifted peat moss. Cover
with black plastic and place on your heating mat at 70 degrees. Keep track of how many seeds went into the hole
and how many sprouted. Use Season Cycles data log. This will give you the germination rate for the whole.
Anything less than 80% germ rate is pretty unreliable and should be grown out immediately with this set up. Thin to
the strongest one in each hole, no matter what. Use up those seeds first before you buy more, maybe you'll get just
enough for this year. Lesson learned.
Or, did you make up a mix that has excess nitrogen, or fertilizer, or unfinished compost? These things can inhibit
germination. My blocking mix has never caused any problems, but if you think yours is not right, try making or
finding a seed starting potting soil with no fertilizer added.
Here's the next common problem: blocks are too compacted for root penetration, and thus the seedling is stunted.
Try "charging" the blocker only 2 times, or change your mix. Then, you must cover the seeds with a sheet of black
plastic and/or sifted peat. By covering, the seeds are forced to go down with their roots and penetrate the block.
- What is "vegetable compost" and why are you claiming it to be the best?
vegetation only, not animal manure and not just forest litter. What is in a vegetable compost? Kitchen wastes, grass
clippings, cover crops(alfalfa, vetch, clover, rye, legumes, etc.), weeds(without seed heads), straw, and garden soil.
It is layered up in heaps, watered and turned every so often. See compost for more detailed instruction. When it
comes to making soil blocks with compost, you want to avoid animal manure compost. The vegetable compost
copies nature's system of a decomposing forest floor, it is a real pure source of nutrients for a seedling. Animal
manure can burn or stunt a seedlings growth. Animal manure can be unknown. And, when animal manure compost
gets wet, as in the blocking mix, it can start to rot and actually kill vegetation. Vegetable compost will not inhibit seed
germination. If you can't find some, make some. If you don't have the time, we sell it here on the farm. See
Grover's Compost. Best to make some now for next year's blocking mix supply.