Less Frequently Asked Questions
- They are expensive, can't I make my own? Yes, click here!
Cell 1 soil block maker or click on this link, Make your own blocker and save.
- Why are soil blockers so expensive?
the lowest prices outside of England, and our profits also help feed people in need at Plant-a-row-for-the-hungry.
PottingBlocks.com exists to help farmers and gardeners use the Ladbrooke Soil Blocker for consistent, professional,
modular, efficient results based upon years of dedicated research. Small backyard gardeners or gardeners on a tight
budget would do quite well with a homemade blocker, following the sound practices of the blocking method. However,
the investment in soil block makers are well worth their price. They'll never break or wear out like homemade ones will.
They can stand up to repeated use for large scale or avid gardeners. They're made of steel by British Engineers.
They are zinc coated. They are so easy to use. The square shape is an efficient use of space, compared to
homemade blockers. You can pack more soil in professional blockers than homemade blockers. The block comes out
superior, every time; and it never falls apart and can withstand water spray and transporting. Professional blockers
come with seed pin options which are completely interchangeable, and allow the potting on, or transplanting onto,
option that gives them the edge over any other system on the planet. They are for serious gardeners who need a
system to work, and work now, with a limited learning curve and immediate results. Although it may fun to make your
own and save a buck, some gardeners just need to get growing and experience the amazing growth due to the cube of
compressed potting soil. Potting blocks have been tested, researched and practiced for decades. They are proven to
get the results you should expect from paying a premium for these outstanding tools.
- Do they come with a warranty?
convinced that this is the best seed starting and transplanting equipment you've ever used and we are so proud of the
soil blockers we sell, we will give them a 2 year warranty from the date of purchase to be free of manufacturer defects.
- Are these the soil block shapers that Martha Stewart uses and recommends?
cubers (the real soil cube), block makers, and Ladbrooke soil blockers.
Martha Stewart said it best when she describes using the soil blockers compared to other methods: "When you're
done changing, you're done." You'll just have to try them out for yourself and see why Martha Stewart uses them,
too!
- But she said "never use compost or soil when germinating". Why?
made compost is how nature makes great seed germinating soil. But, there is so much room for error to sell or
make inferior, seed germination inhibiting "compost". I, however, have always used compost with flying results.
The key is to used a mature, finished, black, aged, and screened (1/4") vegetable compost. You must make your
own or scrutinize the label of a store bought product. Stay away from any steer manure or excess nitrogen. As far
as soil is concerned, I recommend it in my blocking mix recipe, but I know my soil. It is a good garden soil, free of
weeds, diseases, bugs, and is organic. When in doubt, don't use it. Finally, worm castings or vermi-compost has
been proven by Ohio State University to be a GREAT germination medium. And, field trials here have confirmed
worm castings can completely replace the soil and compost!
And finally, most composts are animal manure composts, as vegetable-based composts are less common on the
market. These animal composts, in our experience, dry out too fast in soil blocks. And, if they're sold
commercially, like Vermont Compost or Johnny's Mix, they have been sterilized to avoid any contamination to the
public. But, good compost is never heat treated or it will kill the beneficial microbiology. There's alway more "good
guys" in any compost pile than the "bad guys". So, make your own compost with whatever you have at home, and
get a supply aging for two years in advance. That will be the best source of soil blocking mix in your sunny future!
- I'm interested in buying some block makers, where can I buy them?
won't have them. They are a specialty item, and PottingBlocks.com is a specialty shop. Once you purchase our Soil
Block Makers, you are supported and guided every step of the way. There is some learning curve, and we promise to
be there for you. Our site is primarily an education site, teaching you the theory and practice of soil block making.
Every purchase includes The Potting Block Promise, which is a 1 year warranty on your machines. No one else can
do this for you. Support our site and only purchase blockers from a reputable dealer of the Ladbrooke makers. By
supporting our site in any way you can, you can help further the research needed to create the ultimate seed starting
and transplanting experiment on the planet!
You can find them at other online gardening stores, as well. Be forewarned, these bigger companies will not warranty
soil blockers, and will provide no additional information. Make sure they sell Ladbrooke soil blockers, many companies
are passing cheap Asian imports as real soil blockers, but they are inferior in quality. In fact, all other companies don't
even know how to use them. It is only the pioneers of this movement that have created the demand; buy from them.
And, do not be fooled by their recommended potting soil they try to sell you; it won't work, we've tried them all.
- Are they difficult to use?
pack the blocker with plenty of soil. And always do a little lift and twist off the bottom of the bucket to release the
suction created by the moisture. You'll know if you don't, the blocks will stay stuck to the bottom of the bucket!
The pins do take a little effort to change out to different pins. Big hint here: Keep a magnetic tipped phillips head
screw driver handy to change the cubic pins out. Keep a pliers or a needle nose pliers handy for the seed and
dowel pins. The pins will take a lot of abuse, so plan on buying a few extra sets. We have finally created the new
quick release seed and dowel pins, now standard in the industry. British Engineering at it's finest! Still, the
greatest idea would be to plan ahead and seed like-sized seeds together and change the pins less frequently.
- HELP! I've created too many soil blocks, what do I do now? (Part 1 of 3)
O.K. O.K. I forget to warn all of you newbies to soil blocking; they're so easy to create and so fun to make that you can
end up with too many, and end up with too many seedlings. First things first, use my SEASON CYCLES DATA LOG to
really pay attention to the seedlings you are sowing. This will help you to slow down and focus on the growth of every
seed, and not get too carried away with the incredible soil block maker machine! Use the moon to guide your plantings,
like all the old timers, to slow your rhythm down. And, think continual harvest and succession planting. See Season
Extending.
You will be able to handle more as you get better at seeding, transplanting and harvesting after you master the
reasonable amount you start with now. You are, after all, acting like a mini farmer, and your soil blocks are a
representation of a larger garden, just compressed into small spaces. You'll have to see the bigger picture: Where will
all these seedlings go once they do need their proper garden space.
Take your space into consideration first. How much land do you have? How much nursery space(do you hear your
babies crying for attention?) or greenhouse or cold frame or window sill or cloches do you have? What are the space
requirements for spinach as compared to tomatoes? Squash compared to marigolds? Thyme compared to
sunflowers? Think about it......
- Part 2 of 3
So, you got carried away did you? Easy to do. I do it every day. I push the envelope to create solutions. First, try
giving the extra seedlings away, or start a great "Old World Style" seedling biz. You can give them away one at a time
without any packaging, or you can build some light weight cedar wooden flats. Or, you can use Aseptic packs like rice
and soy milk containers with the tops cut open for about 6-8 blocks. Try to reuse household recycle-ables to place
them in. Everyone loves being given starts, especially when all they have to do is pop them in a pot or garden. Next,
you'll want to space them out on a large sheet of plastic so they don't grow together. This will keep the roots air pruned
and buy you some more time. Spacing of about 1/8"- 1/4" is fine. Water more frequently now that the sides are
exposed. Too many lettuces or greens? Try letting them grow large enough in the blocks and start clipping them and
eating them. Stay off the fertilizer for about 10 days before you eat them.
A quick and easy garden would be to lay down sheets of cardboard on any ground and space out your blocks
accordingly, stuff straw all around the soil blocks and on top of them, leaving only the seedling showing. Water
frequently, and fertilize regularly, keep the blocks covered in straw and watch 'em grow.
- Part 3 of 3
You need to create space for your seedlings inside in a greenhouse, potting shed, cold frame, or hoop house. Or, you
need to create a garden space outside. In that case, you'll need to harden off your plants before they are ready for
transplanting. These steps are best described in Transplanting or Season Extension.
- My wet potting soil stinks and the growth of my plants seem stunted and yellowish.
and the breakdown of this material is robbing your plants of nitrogen and oxygen. Blocking Mix should never stink, use
finished compost and your best gardening soil. Make your block mix fresh and use within 2 hours. Any left over
material should be set aside and reworked back into fresh blocking mix by churning and mixing thoroughly with your
hands or a paddle. This is known as actively aerated potting soil, coined a.a.p.s. Keep churning your mix until it smells
like freshly plowed soil. Then make your blocks again. If your blocking mix is too far gone for a remix, perhaps it sat for
weeks, chuck it in the compost pile and start again. Also, stay away from manure composts and questionable
composts. Again, use finished, matured, aged, and blackened compost or worm castings that ate mostly vegetable
wastes.
- My seeds are not germinating. I thought it was supposed to be easy?
you are using old seeds, change your set up to a "germination station". That means, change your pins for your 2"
block maker into the cubic pins and make a whole bunch of blocks. Make sure your mix is freshly made and stirred
really well. Then, drop bunches of seeds into the cubic holes and cover lightly with a little sifted peat moss. Cover with
black plastic and place on your heating mat at 70 degrees. Keep track of how many seeds went into the hole and how
many sprouted. Use Season Cycles data log. This will give you the germination rate for the whole. Anything less than
80% germ rate is pretty unreliable and should be grown out immediately with this set up. Thin to the strongest one in
each hole, no matter what. Use up those seeds first before you buy more, maybe you'll get just enough for this year.
Lesson learned.
Or, did you make up a mix that has excess nitrogen, or fertilizer, or unfinished compost? These things can inhibit
germination. My blocking mix has never caused any problems, but if you think yours is not right, try making or finding a
seed starting potting soil with no fertilizer added.
Here's the next common problem: blocks are too compacted for root penetration, and thus the seedling is stunted. Try
"charging" the blocker only 2 times, or change your mix. Then, you must cover the seeds with a sheet of black plastic
and/or sifted peat. By covering, the seeds are forced to go down with their roots and penetrate the block.
- My seeds are damping off and my neighbors' seeds are doing better in Speedling trays.
have proper air movement around the plants. ALL of your seedlings MUST be moving in the breeze, they must all be
"bobbing and weaving" with the air from fans. Then, check for enough light, they need all they can get. Do not
overwater them, of course, as blocks still hold and absorb a lot of water. Don't drown them just because there's no pot!
- What is "vegetable compost" and why are you claiming it to be the best?
from vegetation only, not animal manure and not just forest litter. What is in a vegetable compost? Kitchen wastes,
grass clippings, cover crops(alfalfa, vetch, clover, rye, legumes, etc.), weeds(without seed heads), straw, and garden
soil. It is layered up in heaps, watered and turned every so often. See compost for more detailed instruction. When it
comes to making soil blocks with compost, you want to avoid animal manure compost. The vegetable compost copies
nature's system of a decomposing forest floor, it is a real pure source of nutrients for a seedling. Animal manure can
burn or stunt a seedlings growth. Animal manure can be unknown. And, when animal manure compost gets wet, as in
the blocking mix, it can starts to rot and actually kills vegetation. Vegetable compost will not inhibit seed germination. If
you can't find some, make some. If you don't have the time, we sell it here on the farm. Best to make some now for
next year's blocking mix supply. Experienced gardeners can turn animal manure into awesome compost; it will be aged,
aerated, turned, moistened enough like a damp sponge, and covered.
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| (c) 2007-2012 by Jason Beam. All rights reserved. Any reproduction without written consent strictly prohibited. Thank you. Jason Beam, Eliot Coleman, PottingBlocks.com, Season Cycles, Old Farm Boy, Ladbrooke, Micro 20, Mini 4, Mini 5, Maxi 1, Multi 12, Multi 20, Multi 6, Multi 4, Mega 1, Millions Sold and Potting Blocks, are all trademarks of Jason Beam, Oregon. You Tube Blog Articles Sitemap Links Testimonies Catalog Guarantee |
- How do I carry my soil block transplants?
You simply must see our blog on soil block trays!